The questions we get asked at the counter.

The honest answer is by rounds, not by calendar. Roughly every 40 rounds, or once a season if you play weekly. Range sessions count — an hour on the mat is about the same wear as nine holes.

Faster if you play gloveless, live somewhere humid, or your clubs sit in a hot car. Soft wrap grips wear quicker than cord.

The test is simple: hold the club and try to twist the grip in your hands. If it moves before your hands do, or the texture has gone shiny and smooth, it is done. Most people wait about a season too long.

Start with glove size, then adjust by feel. As a rough map:

• Undersize — small or cadet glove, or small hands
• Standard — medium to large glove. Most players.
• Midsize — large to XL glove, or long fingers
• Jumbo — XXL glove, or hand pain that a larger diameter relieves

Then the real test: take a normal grip and look at your top hand. Your fingertips should just brush your palm. Digging into the palm means the grip is too small; not reaching it means too big.

Between sizes, we build up a standard grip with extra wraps of tape rather than jumping to the next size — it gives you finer control over the final diameter. One wrap is about 1/64”, and four wraps gets you roughly to midsize.

Tell us your glove size in the quote request and we will sanity-check the spec before we start.

Rubber is the default and the right answer for most people. Consistent, durable, comfortable gloved or not.

Cord has cotton fibre through the compound. It grips hard when wet or sweaty and lasts a long time, but it is firm and it will wear at bare hands over eighteen holes.

Hybrid puts cord in the upper hand and rubber in the lower. You get security where the glove is and comfort where it is not. This is the most-requested category in the shop for a reason.

Wrap mimics a leather-wrapped grip — soft, forgiving, good for light grip pressure and dry conditions, and the shortest-lived of the four.

If you are unsure: play in humidity or sweat heavily, go hybrid. Hand pain, go soft rubber or wrap. Neither, go rubber.

Build-up tape. A wrap is one layer of double-sided tape under the grip, and each one adds roughly 1/64” to the diameter. It is how you fine-tune size without jumping to the next grip size.

Rough guide: two extra wraps sits between standard and midsize. Four is about midsize.

You probably want them if a standard grip feels slightly too thin but midsize feels like holding a baseball bat — which is very common, and the reason we charge for wraps by the club instead of pretending everyone fits four stock sizes.

One caution: on a grip that is already built up in the lower hand, like the MCC Plus4, adding your usual wrap count will overshoot. We check for that and flag it before starting rather than after.

Standard is 3–5 business days on the bench. If you mail them in, add shipping each way — from most of the country that is two days out and two back, so plan on about a week and a half door to door.

Rush gets your clubs on the bench the day they arrive and back out the next business day, for a flat fee. If you are travelling for a trip, tell us the date in your request and we will confirm we can make it before you ship.

A small job — a putter grip, a couple of wedges — is often quicker. Call before you drive over and we will tell you what the bench looks like.

Yes. Installation is charged at the same per-club labor rate and you simply skip the grip line on the quote.

Two things worth knowing. We cannot warranty a grip we did not supply — if one splits during install, that is on the grip, and we will show you rather than quietly bin it. And please check what you are sending: counterfeit grips are common on marketplace sites and they behave badly on the bench. If something looks off when it arrives, we will photograph it and ask before proceeding.

Send two spares if you have them. It is rare, but grips do occasionally fail during installation.

We stop and ask you.

Pulling a grip off exposes things you cannot see with one on — cracked ferrules, rust under the tape, a graphite shaft with crushing or splintering at the butt, an old repair somebody did badly. We photograph it, send it to you, and wait for a decision before doing anything further.

A cracked graphite shaft in particular is a safety issue, not a cosmetic one, and we will not put a grip on it and hand it back without telling you.

This costs us time on essentially every set. We consider it the job.

Once your quote is confirmed we email a prepaid, insured label both ways — you do not pay for shipping separately and you do not stand in line at a counter.

Packing, briefly:

1. A golf club shipping tube, or a sturdy box at least 50” long. Most pro shops will give you a used one.
2. Heads wrapped individually in bubble wrap or towels, then taped together as a bundle so they cannot swing.
3. Fill every void. If the clubs move when you shake the box, add more padding.
4. Nothing loose in the box — no headcovers, no rangefinders, no bag.

Do not ship the whole bag. It costs more, it arrives damaged more often, and we only need the clubs.

We photograph every club on arrival before anything is touched, and those photos go on your job record.

You are not charged anything to request a quote, and there is no deposit to ship your clubs.

The flow is: you build a quote here and send it over. We confirm it — including anything the configurator could not know, like a split grip order or a counterweight — and reply with a firm price. Work starts once you say yes. We invoice when the job is finished, before the clubs go back out.

The price we confirm is the price you pay. If something changes mid-job, it turns into a question, not a surprise on the invoice.

Card, bank transfer and cash on local pickup.

There is a $30 shop minimum on any job, because a single wedge takes the same bench setup as a full set.

That does not mean we will not do small jobs — a putter grip on its own is completely normal and welcome. It just means a single $8 grip comes out at the minimum rather than $14.

If you are near the line, it is usually better value to do the wedges together, or add the wear report, than to pay the minimum for one club.